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Flying Visit - 24 Hours in Santa Fe

Santa Fe doesn’t just welcome you, it wraps you in a warm adobe embrace, hands you a margarita, and whispers, “And now…chill.” You could easily pass a week here without realising it.  It also is the type of place that elicits approving noises whenever you tell anyone you’re going, normally followed by an expressive ‘I LOVED Santa Fe’. High praise indeed!


Man leans on vibrantly painted columns of Pueblo-style building under clear blue sky, exuding a relaxed mood.

Unfortunately, my visit with my buddy Seth allowed for considerably less time but armed with a host of recommendations from friends and acquaintances, we certainly made the best of things. For the time-strapped traveller, this city offers a compact yet rich tapestry of culture, cuisine, and charm.  Whilst I don’t pretend my 48hrs there was anyway near long enough, we certainly gave it a good go!


We walked between all of our stops before dinner, taking advantage of the early start by parking at the Water Street Municipal Parking lot ($2 per hr, $12 per day).   After that Bolt and Uber came into play.




Breakfast at Café Pasqual’s


Location: 121 Don Gaspar Ave

Opening Times: Daily from 8:00 AM to 3:00 PM


Colorful papel picado hangs from the ceiling, surrounded by chili peppers and intricate wall decor. Calendars labeled "Pasqual's" line the window.

Start your day at the iconic Café Pasqual’s.  This vibrant eatery adorned with colorful Mexican tiles and murals serves organic, locally sourced dishes with a New Mexican twist.  It’s also a helpful induction to New Mexico cuisine and the obsession with chileFor those familiar with Blue Highways, you’ll note the number of calendars on the wall with approval.


Their green chile-infused breakfast burrito is practically a local rite of passage, and the Huevos Motuleños are a revelation in tangy, spicy balance.  For those whose constitutions can’t quite stomach that much heat first thing (me!), the granola parfait was generous in its fruit portion and delicious.


There’s no reservation system, so arrive as close to opening time as possible to beat the inevitable queue.  Solo travellers and those feeling more social are seated at the communal oval table in the centre of the café – the type of simple yet brilliant idea you find yourself wondering why it’s not seen elsewhere.


The ambiance is cheerful, the coffee is strong, and the crowd is a mix of locals, in-the-know travellers, and the occasional movie star passing through. It's just a 5-minute walk from the Plaza, with handy parking opposite (again, arriving early has its perks) making it the perfect start to your Santa Fe sojourn.


The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi: Stillness with a View


Location: 131 Cathedral Pl

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday, 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM


A five-minute walk (or more likely waddle post-breakfast) east from Pasqual’s leads you to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.

Church interior with focus on a reflective baptismal font. People sit and walk towards ornate altar with icons. Warm, peaceful ambiance.

This Romanesque Revival structure might seem imposing in a city of adobe, but its sandstone façade and French-imported stained glass hold their own kind of beauty. Inside, it’s a peaceful, reverent space that invites you to pause.  Don’t miss the smaller adobe chapel to the left, which dates back to the early 1700s. Whether you're admiring the intricate detailing or just soaking up the hush, it’s a tranquil counterpoint to a day filled with sensory delights. While entrance is free, donations are welcome.


Directly in front of the cathedral, don’t miss the muraled columns part of the IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts decorated with vibrant designs. 


We had misfortune to be visiting on a Tuesday (the one day the museum is closed, otherwise 10.00 – 17.00, Sunday 11.00 – 16.00) otherwise would definitely visited.


Georgia O’Keeffe Museum: A Desert Dreamscape


Location: 217 Johnson St

Opening Hours:  Daily, 10.00 – 17.00

Tickets: $22 adults


From the cathedral, it’s a pleasant 10-minute stroll northwest to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.  If you’re strolling through the plaza, keep an eye out for the ubiquitous chiles swinging from every lamppost, traditional symbols of good health and good luck.


A person in a red hat views art and text on a gallery wall. Quote above reads, "you write about my flower..." in English and Spanish.

Philistine that I am, I’ll confess I knew next to nothing about O’Keefe beyond - my far more cultured partner - Paul having a poster of her work in his bedroom.  I quickly learnt. This intimate museum houses a definitive collection of O’Keeffe’s work with thoughtful explanations of the different eras it represents from her life, from her oversized flowers to her haunting desert abstractions.  


 It’s refreshingly unstuffy and accessible to beginners and I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the various styles that became O’Keefe’s hallmark. 


For those more dedicated to her work, the space also includes photographs, personal letters, and sketches that offer a deeper glimpse into the woman who painted the American Southwest like no one else.


The whole experience was thoughtfully curated, and the stories behind the art linger long after you leave. For the time-poor but culture-rich traveller, it delivers a potent artistic punch.


Shopping in the Plaza and Around: Art, Skulls and Silver


Red peppers hang from a streetlamp under a bright blue sky. Bare trees and an adobe building with "First National" text in the background.

Turn around and stroll back five minutes to the Santa Fe Plaza, the city’s historic and commercial heart since the early 1600s. A much a cultural crossroads, as a shopping stop, it is lined with boutiques offering handwoven textiles, ceramics, and high-end turquoise jewellery.


Under the portal of the Palace of the Governors, Native American Navajo artisans sell their crafts directly through a regulated program ensuring authenticity.


You can browse handcrafted silver earrings, beaded necklaces, and pottery while chatting with the artists themselves.


The plaza buzzes with life but never overwhelms. It’s the kind of place where you might buy a scarf and come away with a story.


Afternoon: Canyon Road or Railyard District




Owl-themed sculptures on pedestals, adorned with intricate beadwork and vibrant colors. Background includes colorful abstract paintings.

Santa Fe is an art lover’s paradise, and your afternoon offers two distinctive routes. For the classics, head to Canyon Road, about a 15-minute walk uphill from the Plaza.


This winding lane is home to over 80 galleries housed in historic adobes. Expect sculpture gardens, oil landscapes, and the occasional bronze cowboy. There's also a helpful shuttle bus from downtown (look out for signs) that runs every 30 mnutes.


If you prefer contemporary edge, walk or drive 20 minutes to the Railyard Arts District, home to SITE Santa Fe and a rotating line-up of installations in warehouse-style spaces.


The Railyard also has green spaces and cafes where you can decompress between exhibits. Both options are rewarding and walkable (though Canyon Road has a slope). Choose your vibe: traditional elegance or avant-garde cool.


Dinner at La Choza: Chile Heaven


Location: 905 Alarid St

Opening Hours:  11.00 – 14.30, 16.30 – 20.30


Two plates of Mexican food on a wooden table, featuring enchiladas, pinto beans, and fresh vegetables in rich, vibrant colors.

After an afternoon of gallery-hopping, it’s time for chile therapy. La Choza is the colorful, down-to-earth sibling of the more touristy Shed and was another – emphatic – recommendation from a friend.  ‘You’ll want to early, y’hear?’ was the crystal-clear advice received.


It’s a 15-minute walk or 5-minute drive from the Plaza. This is New Mexican food done right: blue corn enchiladas, posole, tamales, and chile rellenos. 


All meals are all served with red, green, or the extremely pleasingly named "Christmas" chile (a bit of both). The flavours are bold and addictive, the cocktails are strong, and the atmosphere is comfortably bustling.


You might have to wait for a table – we arrived at 17.30 and waited 75 minutes but with a mezcal cocktail in hand, it was worth it.  Alongside Pasqual’s this was the soul of Santa Fe on a plate with food good enough to make you want to sing.


Nightcaps For Everyone: The Matador and Secreto Lounge


The Matador

Location: 116 W San Francisco Street

Opening Hours: 17.00 – late


Secreto Lounge

Location: Hotel St Francis, 210 Don Gaspar Avenue

Open:  All day until 22.00


Santa Fe downtown may appear ghost-like some evenings as the shops and galleries shut but there’s ample entertainment to be had. From the multiple places we sampled, the contrast between these two places playfully stood out.


Pabst Blue Ribbon can on a bar counter with stickers and signs on the wall, including "Cash Only." Dimly lit with a warm, cozy vibe.

Start low-key and low-ceilinged at The Matador, a gritty basement bar just off the Plaza – look for the mural at the bottom of the staircase. It’s a classic dive bar – cash-only, candlelit with every piece of wallspace covered in stickers, posters and crosses made out of bottle tops. 80s movies play from the TV and the whole place feels like a time capsule – although sadly with 2025 prices.  


It’s a perfect place for a chilled beer – and it’ll likely be a slow one if you’re still full from dinner!


Afterward, change gears at Secreto Lounge, inside the Hotel St. Francis. Open until 10:00 PM most nights, it’s known for mixology with a local twist.  You’ll see what I mean when you try the smoked sage margarita or anything featuring New Mexican chile – although without the Christmas option here sadly. The vibe is upscale but unfussy, and the bartenders know their craft.


Between the two, you’ll experience Santa Fe’s yin and yang: dusty dive and polished potion, all within a 10 minute walk.


Why You Should Go


I don’t know anyone who doesn’t like Santa Fe and I can see why.  It offers attractions everywhere you turn; from chile-laced breakfasts and spiritual calm to world-class art and margaritas infused with herbs you can’t pronounce.  Compact and deeply layered, it rewards those who show up curious.


As with every other city covered in this section, a Flying Visit is categorically insufficient but if that’s all you have, grab the opportunity.  You’ll leave with regret you didn’t stay longer but also a delight in having brushed shoulders with a city that dances to its own desert rhythm.

 

 
 
 

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