The Perfect Summer Roadtrip: Bulgaria

Bulgaria has broken out from its ‘next big thing’ tag to become a heavyweight of the European summer scene – not surprising given it offers uncrowded beaches and excellent value.  The rise of package tourism results in most visitors sticking resolutely to the Black Sea Coast.  They’re missing out – combine the coast with inland areas and you’ve got all the ingredients for an epic roadtrip: dramatic landscapes, layered history and even the odd bit of larger-than-life Communist kitsch thrown in.

Compact yet diverse, Bulgaria offers everything you'd want from a summer roadtrip, from Ottoman-era towns and Thracian tombs to alpine hikes and Black Sea sunsets. Roads are generally in good shape and distances are manageable, giving you ample time to experience all this country has to offer. You can also pack a lot in over a week - history, hiking, beaches and a surprisingly superb culinary scene.

Starting and ending in Sofia, this 7-day summer roadtrip itinerary is designed for independent travellers with limited time who want a deep, satisfying taste of the country without rushing. Here's how to make the most of a week on the road in Bulgaria.

NB: You can reduce this itinerary to five days by staying in Veliko Tarnovo, Sozopol for 2 nights (visiting but not staying in Kazanlak) and back to Sofia for 2 nights (visiting Plovdiv on the return journey from Sozopol and doing the Rila Monastery and hiking as a day trip from Sofia).   Obviously this extends driving days but it’s perfectly feasible.

Day 1: Sofia to Veliko Tarnovo

Driving Time: 2¾ hrs

Pick up your rental car from Sofia and begin your road trip with a scenic drive northeast to Veliko Tarnovo, the former capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire. Perched dramatically on the cliffs above the Yantra River, the town served as the political, cultural, and spiritual heart of Bulgaria between the 12th and 14th centuries. Its steep hills, fortress walls, and tiered houses give it a theatrical beauty that still feels formidable.  Driving is an easy three hours from Sofia.

Spend your afternoon exploring Tsarevets Fortress (open 8am–7pm), the medieval stronghold of Bulgarian tsars. Within its stone ramparts lie the ruins of royal palaces, an execution rock (very Game of Thrones – albeit with a better view), and the restored Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension, its frescoes glowing in vivid modern tones. The fortress played a central role in defending Bulgarian sovereignty until the Ottoman conquest in 1393.   Give yourself a couple of hours to stroll through the whole site.

Afterwards, pay a visit to Samovodska Charshia, Veliko Tarnovo’s historic market street, where 19th-century buildings now house blacksmiths, ceramicists, weavers, and traditional bakers. It’s ideal for finding unique souvenirs (don’t wait until you’re back in Sofia) or simply watching craftspeople at work. Stop at the nearby Asenevtsi Monument, a dramatic sculpture honouring Bulgaria’s medieval rulers.

For dinner, check out Shtastliveca, a stylish spot with modern twists on traditional dishes and excellent views over the Yantra.Accommodation: Hotel Gurko, 33 General Gurko Street – centrally located with traditional decor and riverside charm (and parking).

Day 2: Buzludzha Monument & Kazanlak

Driving Time: 2hrs (to Kazanlak), 4½hrs (if pushing on to Sozopol)

Day 2 takes you off the main highways with a drive through – and up - the Balkan Mountains.  Your jaw will drop when you reach your end point (90 minutes’ drive), the haunting Buzludzha Monument, one of the most striking architectural relics of Bulgaria’s communist past. Built in 1981 to commemorate the founding of the Bulgarian Social Democratic Party, its UFO-like structure was abandoned after the fall of communism. Though the interior remains closed due to safety concerns, the windswept plateau and the abandoned concrete statues below (the torch-bearing fist was my favourite) are unforgettable, as well as being a powerful visual metaphor for Bulgaria’s traumatic 20th-century history.

Another hour on will take you into heart of the Valley of the Roses, where the town of Kazanlak awaits. The region has been the centre of Bulgaria’s rose oil production since Ottoman times, and if you're visiting in early June, the Rose Festival offers a full sensory immersion with parades, folk dances, and rose-picking rituals. Be sure to stop at the Thracian Tomb of Kazanlak (open 9am–5pm, closed Mondays), a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to the 4th century BCE. The frescoes, depicting Thracian nobility and mythological scenes, are among the best-preserved examples of ancient Balkan art.

For dinner, head to Chiflika Restaurant, known for its hearty Bulgarian fare and leafy outdoor setting. Try the kavarma (a slow-cooked pork and vegetable stew) or the stuffed vine leaves, paired with a glass of dry Misket or Mavrud wine. Either stay overnight in Kazanlak or press on for a late-night arrival in Sozopol, depending on your energy levels and time off.

Day 3: Sozopol

Driving Time: 2½ hrs from Kazanlak, none if you arrived last night!

After a scenic drive southeast, arrive on Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast in the ancient town of Sozopol. Founded as Apollonia by Greek settlers in the 7th century BCE, Sozopol is one of the oldest towns on the Bulgarian coast and a fascinating blend of antiquity and relaxed seaside charm. The Old Town is a tangle of cobbled lanes, weathered stone walls, and wooden Revival-era houses overlooking the sea, displaying an architecture unique to Bulgaria.

After a couple of busy days, this is the point to power down temporarily.

Spend your afternoon wandering its winding streets of the Old Town and visiting the Archaeological Museum (open 10am–6pm), which houses artefacts from Sozopol’s Greek and Roman past—including coins, amphorae, and intricate gold jewellery. Just outside, you’ll find the Southern Fortress Wall and Tower, remnants of the ancient city defences, offering excellent views over the water.

If you’re craving a swim, head to Harmanite Beach, a sandy stretch popular with locals and visitors alike. Alternatively, settle into one of the clifftop cafés and enjoy a cold drink with the sound of seagulls overhead.

For dinner, reserve a table at Neptun, a sea-facing restaurant perched above the rocks. Their grilled Black Sea mussels, seafood risotto, and fresh sea bass are standouts. Sozopol is especially magical in the evening, when the sun dips below the water and the old town streets are lit by lanterns and murmured conversation. 

NB: Despite modern appearances, a number of restaurants and bars along the Black Sea coast are cash only so come prepared.

Day 4: Day Trip to Nessebar (Return to Sozopol)

Driving Time: 2hrs (return)

Start the day with a one-hour coastal drive north to Nessebar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Bulgaria’s oldest towns. Originally founded by the Thracians and later colonised by the Greeks as Mesembria, Nessebar’s layered history is reflected in its Roman baths, medieval churches, and cobbled alleys. Situated on a rocky peninsula linked to the mainland by a narrow causeway, the old town feels like a museum island but still very much alive.

Visit the beautifully preserved Church of St. Stephen (open 9am–7pm), known for its 16th-century frescoes that cover the walls from floor to ceiling. Nearby, the Ethnographic Museum offers a glimpse into traditional Bulgarian coastal life with period furnishings and folk costumes. The town has over 40 churches, many now partial ruins, which make for a fascinating architectural scavenger hunt.

Stroll along the fortified sea walls or stop for a seafood lunch in one of the harbour-side restaurants.  In the afternoon, return to Sozopol for some beach time or a final wander through the old quarter.

Enjoy traditional Bulgarian cooking at Mehana Starata Kashta in Sozopol. The house-made sach (grilled meats and vegetables served on a hot iron plate) and homemade wine make for a perfect, rustic finish to the day.

NB: Nessebar is a livelier place than Sozopol with the tourist numbers to prove it – there are also regular boats to the tourist hotspot (hellhole) of Sunny Beach.  If you’re after more nightlife, it may be a better option.  Personally, we preferred Sozopol’s old-town charm.

Day 5: Plovdiv and Back to Sofia

Driving Time: 5hrs (3hrs if you choose to stay in Plovdiv)

After breakfast, a longer drive awaits (c. 3hrs). Inland, across the Thracian Plain lies Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second-largest city and cultural capital. With over 8,000 years of continuous habitation, Plovdiv is a mosaic of Thracian, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences, all layered within a modern, creative energy.

Begin in the Old Town, where cobbled streets twist past 19th-century merchant houses, many of which are now galleries and museums. Highlights include the Roman Theatre (open 9am–6pm), a remarkably preserved example of period architecture, still used for concerts and plays, and the Ethnographic Museum (open 9am–6pm, closed Mondays), set in one of the town’s finest National Revival homes. Both offer insight into the city’s long-standing cultural significance.

Next, explore the Kapana District, once an artisans’ quarter and now a thriving hub of street art, design shops, and café culture. It’s a great place to linger over coffee, shop for unique souvenirs, or sample locally brewed beer (not if you’re driving obviously).

For dinner, head to Pavaj, a bistro in the heart of Kapana that locals swear by. The menu features seasonal Bulgarian ingredients in inventive dishes—think roasted duck with sour cherry glaze or lamb meatballs with mint yogurt.   

At this point, we chose to head back to Sofia, as it looked considerably easier to visit the Rila Lakes and Monastery from there.  You can absolutely still do it from Plovdiv but it’ll be a looooooong day and need a very early start.

Day 6: Rila Monastery & Seven Rila Lakes Hike

Driving Time: 4¾ hrs (from Sofia), 6hrs (from Plovdiv),

Wherever your day begins, depart early and drive into the Rila Mountains, aiming first for the spectacular Rila Monastery (open 7am–7.30pm), Bulgaria’s most important spiritual and architectural monument.

Founded in the 10th century by the hermit St. Ivan of Rila, the monastery has long been a centre of Bulgarian Orthodox life. The striped arcades and vibrant frescoes are jaw-dropping, especially those by Zahari Zograf in the 19th-century narthex (a posh word for porch). Entry is free but worth paying the 8BGN to include the small monastery museum (open 8:30am–4:30pm), which offers a deeper look at the monastery’s history, including a 14th-century wooden cross carved with over 100 miniature biblical scenes. 

After your visit, drive 30 minutes to Pionerska Hut, where a chairlift (10 BGN open 9am–4:30pm – the last lift goes at 4.30 so don’t chance it!) takes you up to the Seven Rila Lakes trailhead.  The glacial lakes - each with evocative names like Salzata, “The Tear” and Babreka, “The Kidney” -are strung along a circular high-altitude trail offering sublime alpine views.  It’s a 6.2 mile/10km circuit with 350m of ascent, which should be manageable for most walkers.  Assuming photo and picnic stops, it’s worth allowing 4 hours for the full loop.  Dress in layers, even in summer – we visited in early June and traipsed through snow.

Once you’ve descended, complete the circle by heading back to Sofia

Day 7: Return to Sofia

Driving Time: Zero ;-)

I’ll admit I didn’t like Sofia the first time I visited at the end of an Eastern European backpacking tour in 2008.  It was too impersonal, too smoky and I was knackered after a fortnight of saving a few pounds by sleeping on ex-Soviet night trains.

Fifteen years on and I was converted,

It’s an eclectic and surprisingly cosmopolitan capital. Start at the imposing Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (open 7am–6pm), built in the early 20th century to honour Russian soldiers killed in the Russo-Turkish War. With its gold-plated domes and cavernous interior, it's one of the largest Orthodox cathedrals in Eastern Europe.

A short walk leads to the Roman Rotunda of St. George (open 8am–6pm), Sofia’s oldest building, dating to the 4th century and still holding services today. Nearby, the remains of Roman Serdica peek out from beneath the modern city, as in Plovdiv, Sofia’s layers of history are literally under your feet.

Spend your afternoon in Borisova Gradina, Sofia’s oldest park, or explore the shops and bars along Vitosha Boulevard – it’s a fine spot for people watching. For something quieter, visit Sveti Sedmochislenitsi Church, converted from an Ottoman mosque and now one of the city’s most serene corners.  If you’re in the mood for another chairlift, a short Uber ride to Dragalevtsi out of town will take you to Mount Vitosha.  A chairlift whisks you above the city in 15 minutes…on a warm summer’s day, it’s a delightful place to wile away a few hours.  Check opening times in advance, particularly if visiting on a weekday.

Finish your trip at Made in Home, a funky but sincere restaurant blending traditional Bulgarian dishes with global twists. The house-made tagliatelle, lamb kebabs, and seasonal salads are standouts. Toast your final night with a glass of rakia or a bold Bulgarian red.  Studenski Grad (student city) was our destination first time around.  As the name suggests, it’s altogether livelier and the rakia may well be more potent.

Why Bulgaria Makes the Perfect Summer Roadtrip

Bulgaria rewards the independent traveller. Summer brings long days, festivals, and plenty of opportunities to swim, hike, or just sit with something grilled and a glass of the local red – surprisingly delicious - in hand. The distances are all manageable within a single day, and the roads are scenic without being too slow. In 5 days, you’ll travel from medieval fortresses to rose-scented valleys, from sea breezes to alpine lakes. A week allows more time to relax and immerse yourself in the local culture – be that roses, rakia or ruins. For those who want variety, value, and a little adventure, Bulgaria delivers the perfect summer roadtrip.