The Tower of London By Night - London's Most Memorable Evening

“Right, you’re all my prisoners now.”

As welcomes go, this is a little hair-raising.  Entering the Tower of London on any occasion is to come face-to-face with a who’s who of English history and the snakes and ladders of the dynastic politics recreated in countless books and TV series. 

London's most iconic landmark, as I'd never seen before © Phil Thomas, Someone Else's Country

Even those with a cursory knowledge of history will know entering the Tower as a prisoner rarely ended well. 

But the voice behind this command is no ordinary tour guide.  Christopher Skafe is one of the Yeoman Warders – and former Ravenmaster – of the Tower of London.  In his 22 years, he’s experienced the full panoply of ghosts, legends and characters that are associated with England’s most iconic attraction. 

And tonight he’s sharing these with us.

(In)famous Guests

I’m not a first-time visitor – I’d come as a child, intrigued by the Yeoman Warders’ all-red outfits but oblivious to anything historical, returned as a teenager on the obligatory school trip and had vague memories of vast crowds jostling for a glimpse at the Crown Jewels.  My experience wasn’t exactly unusual: peering over others shoulders to get a glimpse of the crown jewels and struggling to remember which king was associated with which tower. So far, so touristy.

Tonight is altogether different. 

You couldn't ask for a better guide than Yeoman Warder Chris © Phil Thomas, Someone Else's Country

Thanks to Walks Devour tours, who specialise in providing visitors (from near and far) unexpected and once-in-a-lifetime London experiences, I’m part of a small group seeing The Tower of London by night on an exclusive tour before the iconic Ceremony of the Keys which has closed the tower each night for roughly 700 years, the oldest ongoing military ceremony anywhere on Earth.

Each tour is run by a Yeoman Warder, more commonly known as Beefeaters, and the smaller group allows for a tour to become a conversation.  As one of the Tower’s best-known warders – and a best-selling author to boot – we’re in for an unforgettable evening of stories from the 900-plus years of the Tower’s history.

Without giving away all of the surprises, these include tales of the menagerie of animals that called the tower’s moat home – Chris points out where the resident polar bear (a gift from the King of Norway) went out into the River Thames to hunt for its lunch.  Less obvious but no less revealing is a nondescript upper floor apartment that was scheduled to house Hitler in the event he was taken prisoner at the event of World War Two.

“We installed a new toilet especially” Chris informs us with a tone of regret that it was never formally used.

A Village Green…With A Dark Twist

Anyone who’s visited the Tower will know it reveals itself in layers like an elaborate wedding cake.  The austere outer towers are altogether sombre with no other visitors and only the odd soldier in ceremonial uniform preparing for the upcoming ceremony breaking Chris’ explanations.

Two London icons © Phil Thomas, Someone Else's Country 

But it’s the inner sanctum of the Tower that surprise me.  At night, Tower Green takes on a whole new character without the crowds. The illuminated White Tower projects royal power – glowing somewhat incongruously with Tower Bridge and the South Bank clearly visible as a backdrop.  Against these, the neat houses – nowadays occupied by the Yeoman Warders that live on-site – could have been transported from the Cotswolds with their timber framings and immaculate front steps.

“It’s just like an English village” observes Chris, gesturing to a pedestal to one side of the green. 

“Except ours has its very own execution spot”.

Indeed. And that spot is marked.

Outnumbering the two kings who met violent ends (Henry VI for certain, Edward V most likely) within the Tower were the three Queens of England – Anne Bolyen, Catherine Howard and the nine-day queen Lady Jane Grey – who were all executed on Tower Green, a violent reminder of the volatility of Tudor politics. 

Chris points out the locations they were each held before their execution and St Peter ad Vincula chapel where they were buried.  He explained that, contrary to popular belief, only six people were ever executed on Tower Green, a dubious honour reserved for the highest-ranking captives whose grisly demise in public could have fuelled public unrest.

Of the deceased monarchs, Anne’s ghost is one of the most associated with the Tower – Chris has never seen her in his two decades here but he’s unsurprised by that.

‘She’s a bit detached’.

An Unbroken History

As evening stretches into night, we return to Traitor’s Gate – from which very few captives ever emerged alive – in time for the Ceremony of the Keys.  With our earlier VIP access, we have an unobstructed view as the ceremony unfolds.  With phones strictly prohibited, a timeless quality is in the air as the key holder is challenged and then accompanied into the interior of the tower to close the tower for the night.  It’s pageantry at its best and, even with more visitors allowed entry for the ceremony, it remains surprisingly intimate.

The Tower's houses remain homes for the Yeoman Warders © Phil Thomas, Someone Else's Country

 Even as a history geek who grew up less than an hour away, seeing this piece of uniquely British history for the first time, I realise will become an all-time memory.

With the Tower safely locked, Chris accompanies us to a side exit.  After the relative quiet of the Tower’s interior, sounds of the real world start to intrude.   A peal of laughter from a nearby pub, an announcement for the next riverboat departure and the rapid footsteps of tourists and late-working businessmen heading to the tube.  Somewhere in the distance a church bell chimes.

Chris checks his watch.

“We must be due another execution”.

The Tower of London By Night: How To Do It

The Ceremony of the Keys takes place every night at 10pm and demand for tickets far outstrips supply.

To get VIP access to the ceremony and the private night-time tour of the Tower, led by a Yeoman Warder, book the same Walks Devour tour I did by clicking here.   Tours go every Wednesday and Saturday evening at 8.15, lasting approximately 90 minutes before the Ceremony of the Keys at 10pm

The Tower of London is a 5-minute walk to Tower Hill tube station (District and Circle lines) and has its own riverboat stop, if you’re in the mood to channel your inner Anne Boleyn.

If you’re more of an early bird, you can also book to see the Opening Ceremony of the Tower, followed by early access to the Crown Jewels.

If that gets you for once-in-a-lifetime London experiences, Walks Devour also offer insider-led tours of London icons, including Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey & the Houses of Parliament (located next to each other) and Kensington Palace, which even includes the most memorable afternoon tea you’ll ever sample.

I was hosted for this visit by Walks Devour and this post includes some affiliate links, earning me a small commission if you book through them – the cost you pay is identical.  And trust me, it was that good that this was one of the easiest posts I’ve ever written!