Second Time in...

Rome

You've already done...The Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, St Peter's and the Vatican Museums, the Trevi Fountain

So you've been to Rome? Let's tick them off...you’ll have the obligatory selfie at the Colosseum, you'll have shuffled through the Vatican Museums with the hordes and you'll definitely have tried to elbow your way close enough to the Trevi fountain to cast in the obligatory coin – which contributed towards the $1.5m thrown in each year! You’ve probably got the blisters or scars to prove it.

You may feel in ticking off the blockbuster sites, that’s all there is to Rome – been there, done that, right. Well – in true British style – I would politely disagree. Second (or third or fourth…) time around, you can dig deeper into the history of Rome, make a break from the oppressive heat of the summer and delight authentic Roman flavours surrounded by Italian speakers (who, trust me, do not tolerate bad food!)

Here’s a two-day itinerary designed to prove that second time is truly a charm. You’ll still get the blisters though, Rome’s Metro coverage remains woeful (although improving) and any bus between Termini and St Peter’s is likely to be rife with pickpockets (usual rules on zipped pockets and not carrying bags on your back apply) .

Day 1

Morning: The National Roman Museum (Museo Nazionale Romano)

Practical Info:

Location: Largo di Villa Peretti 2 – across the street from Termini (Central Station)
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:30 AM - 7:45 PM (Closed Mondays)
Admission: €12 for a single ticket, or grab the combo ticket that covers all four sites of the National Roman Museum.

Rome’s history isn’t confined to gladiators and popes and yet this superb museum complex close to Termini likely gets 10% of the traffic of its more illustrious counterparts but is jaw dropping in the volume of exhibits.

Start your day at the Museo Nazionale Romano, specifically the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (Largo di Villa Peretti, 1). This cool, spacious area packed with treasures, from intriguing frescoes to intricate mosaics and marble sculptures that will make you question how anyone managed such precision without lasers. Highlights for me were the famed Discus Thrower and Boxer At Rest statues and the aforementioned frescoes from the Villa of Livia.

Coffee or Lunch: Stay Local

I’d recommend a couple of hours to see things at a leisurely pace before the 15 minute stroll over to the next walk via Piazza Republicca. En route, I’d recommend seeking out Elsa Coffee (Via Giosuè Carducci, 30, open 6am – 7pm M-F, 7am – 1pm Sa) for a sensational range of pastries to go with a morning beverage. I’ve been told by an Italian the whole ‘no cappuccino after 11am is a load of nonsense but, as a non-coffee drinker, I’m swerving that argument.

Alternatively, if you’re ready for lunch, you’re in luck! The chic Via Veneto neighbourhood has a host of good options. If you haven’t yet ventured to Tuscany (or have done and are craving some good truffle taglioni), Tullio (Via San Nicola da Tolentino, 26) is a trattoria loved by locals, judging by the number of business folk taking lunch there. We didn’t book ahead but I note you can do this online.

Afternoon: The Capuchin Crypt (Museo e Cripta dei Cappuccini)

Practical Info:

Opening Hours: Daily, 9:00 AM - 6:30 PM
Admission: €10, which includes entry to the adjacent museum (you have to go through it to get to the crypt...unless you have a particular fascination with monastic history, you can move at pace!). You can book tickets online here

Darker than your morning Espresso, the Capuchin Crypt was another Atlas Obscura home-run find. I was able to convince Paul that an afternoon admiring the bones of 4,000 friars was a good use of our second time in Rome. I took his stunned silence as approval (plot spoiler, he was decidedly less keen than me).

It’s rare a site can stun me into silence but this came pretty close. Decorated with the bones of over 4,000 friars, the crypt is a memento mori on steroids. Each room is meticulously arranged with chandeliers, arches, and even an hourglass made entirely of human bones. Imagine a home makeover show with a skull and bones theme.

The museum upstairs detailing the history of the Capuchin order and the origins of the church in Rome is largely skippable unless you have a particular afternoon desire for a dose of Catholic propaganda although the first-person audio tour is useful for when you get into the crypt for placing the macabre spectacle into context.

Evening: Passegiata I Carbonara

No matter whether it’s your first or hundredth visit to Rome, one of the joys of the Eternal City is an evening passegiata – the people watching is superb and after a day of exploring, the wine or aperol (obliged to include but not for me!) hits just right.

Even though it remains popular with tourists, I still love the area around Campo do’Fiori and Piazza Navona for its Fountain of the Four Rivers. If you didn’t go the first time, pop into the Pantheon (€5 – book in advance to avoid the queues here), the best-preserved building of Ancient Rome, dating back nearly two millennia. The fact historians still disagree on its original purpose only adds to the intrigue.

As is nearly always the case in Europe, walk one or two streets away from the square itself for your aperitivo – the people-watching is just as good for about half the price. I like the wine and cocktail selection at La Botticella di Poggi Giovanni (Via di Tor Millina 32 – 2 minutes from Piazza Navona) but on a summer’s evening, it’s hard to go wrong regardless.

For dinner, your choices runneth over. I’m a walking cliché in loving carbonara and I make no bones about heading to Roscioli (Via dei Giubbonari, 21) every time I come back. It's no longer purely a haven for locals but their carbonara, made with silky egg yolks, guanciale (pork cheek), and pecorino, is widely regarded as one of the best in Rome and it attracts a mixed crowd of locals and visitors.

Timing is a challenge here as it’s strictly walk-ups but if you arrive before 7pm on a summer’s evening (later in winter) you shouldn’t have long to wait.

Late Night: Cocktails at Freni e Frizioni

Continue your passiegata after dinner and cap off your evening with cocktails at Freni e Frizioni (Via del Politeama, 4/6). This hip Trastevere bar is a favorite among locals, offering inventive drinks – which if you, like me, despise Aperol, is a welcome change! - in a lively atmosphere.

Grab a seat outside and commence people watching.

Day 2

Morning: Kayaking on Lago Albano

Even one day in Rome is enough to send the legs into a coma so we chose the second day to get the arms pumping instead. A little known but serene morning can be had on Lago Albano, a volcanic lake just 40 minutes southeast of Rome. Once the summer playground of Roman elites, the lake is still a haven for those seeking tranquility – and some respite from the sweatbox of the city in summer. Rent a kayak and paddle across its calm, azure waters while enjoying views of the lush Alban Hills. For the less energetic there are loungers for hire and the lake is mighty inviting for a paddle or swim.

We chose to do a kayaking tour via Viator as we were short on time and wanted a quick connection back to the city afterwards. There are spaces to store bags and to change into dry clothes afterwards.

Practical Info:

Getting There: Take the regional train from Roma Termini to Castel Gandolfo or the end of the Metro Line A (red) – Anagnina stop (€2.10, 40 minutes), then it’s a 10 minute taxi to the lake. The abovementioned tour picks you up and drops you off at Anagnina metro station.
Kayak Rentals: Available at various spots along the lake. Expect to pay around €10-15 per hour if independently done.
Pro Tip: Morning is the best time to visit; the water is calm, and you’ll beat the crowds (we were among the first to arrive at 9.45am and had the lake to ourselves).

Lunch: Castel Gandolfo

After working up an appetite, head into the nearby town of Castel Gandolfo.

Famous as the summer residence of the Pope, it’s also home to charming trattorias. For a laid-back meal, try Trattoria Lo Spuntino (Corso della Repubblica, 34). Known for its fresh, local ingredients, this spot serves delicious pasta and hearty Roman-style dishes.

Day 2 Afternoon: La Alamudena Cathedral (and churros)

Spend the afternoon exploring Castel Gandolfo’s cobblestone streets and meander up to the the Papal Palace, where some 30 Popes have passed the last 500 summers (9am – 2pm M-F, 9am to 4pm Sa, from €12 book a timeslot in advance here).

Opened to the public in 2016 by Pope Francis, the palace now serves as a museum showcasing papal artifacts and offering visitors a glimpse into the Vatican's recent history (scrubbed of the less salubrious bits). If you've seen The Two Popes (excellent film), this will all look rather familiar.

The Secret Garden (included in the ticket price) has fabulous views back down to the lake, although it will make it appear like you only paddled a few hundred meters earlier in the day, such is the height! It's a rather lovely place to wile away a lazy hour or two.

Catch a taxi back to the metro station whenever you're ready to head back to the city (c. 10-15 minutes to the station).

Evening: Something A Little Lighter

For me, the combination of heat and physical activity supresses my appetite, rather than enhances (note, this doesn’t apply to cocktails!) so on returning to Rome, I wasn’t in the mood for a carb-heavy dinner. So one late afternoon siesta later, we went in search of something lighter.

After a bit of searching, we stumbled upon Il Sorpasso (Via Properzio, 31 – Metro Line A from Termini to Ottaviano, 9 minute walk from there), where you can sip some of the best value Negronis (€7) in the city and nibble on perfectly crafted charcuterie, bruschetta and small plates surrounded by – again – solely Italian chatter. As sorpressos go, this was close to perfect.

If you still are craving more pasta – or steak – you’re in just as much luck judging by the comments of our fellow diners.

Once again, the joy of the evening is in the passeggiata and a lazy meander back to your hotel. We chose to stroll via the Pantheon and Colosseum - bereft of the days' tour groups and looking redolent under a Roman full moon. Even on a second visit to Rome, it's hard not to find these sites irresistible!

And you have it: a weekend in Rome that avoids the clichés but still delivers all the history, beauty, and indulgence you’d expect from the Eternal City. Buon viaggio!